Phnom Penh

This morning we visited what was once a normal high school in a peaceful neighbourhood in the city. Unfortunately it is not known for the education of the local children but for the torture and execution of people between 1975 and 1978. Known as S-21, Tuol Suay Prey High School stands as a reminder of the horrific past of Cambodia under Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. What were once classrooms are now haunting rooms displaying pictures of the tortured and their guards - if you could call them that as many were 14-18 year old boys.
Other classrooms were converted into prison cells (1m by 1m) with brick or wood. Row after row of pictures showed the fear on the prisoners faces and signs explained how the captors used what were once exercise beams and playground equipment to torture and extract information from them. Over time even the guards and 'officals' of the camp were executed by the high officers of the regime.
They say that everyone has an evil streak - it's just human nature but it's hard to imagine why people felt this was the way to deal with others in order to create a 'new order'.
The fact that it was at a school makes the story more harrowing and over 20,000 people lost their lives at S-21. Tomorrow we continue to understand more about this tragic story by visiting the Killing Fields.
It's been an incredible day of mixed emotions and as we left the school it seemed like another place all together. It really shows the strength of character of the Cambodian people who are always incredibly friendly and cheerful. We continued to walk around the majority of the city stopping off at the Royal Palace and Wat Phnom - oh and a beer or two.
Just to make everyone reassured - we are fine despite what you may have heard on the news regarding typhoons and the bad weather. The worse hit area would appear to be where we have just come from (Siem Reap) and the areas surrounding the Tonle Sap lake. We've had just a couple of downpours but nothing worse.
We plan to stay here for one more day and then we head to the coast on Friday. Then Vietnam after hopefully 4 sunny days on the beach. I've been told to stop!
Love.
Mark & Rach. xxx

Arrival in Phnom Pehn

Not much to report today apart from - yes you've guessed it another early start for us to catch the 7am bus to the capital. We were advised to use Mekong Express and we were impressed, the six hour journey flew by. We even got a bottle of water, a pork bun and a slice of banana cake (not as good as Rach's muffins) in the $11 deal! We stopped off at Thong Phom (look it up in a history book for more details - not good though).
We checked into our pre booked hotel which cost $20 a night/no breakfast (bit pricey for our budget) and then walked down the road to find a cheaper one for $10 - more to spend on food/beer tomorrow!
Apart from that we had a stroll around, saw an elephant with flip flops on and a monkey tucking into a take away! Tomorrow we'll explore more.
Hope all is good.
Lots of love
Mark & Rach. xxx
PS - Becky it was me yesterday (and today) - did I use bigger words! or just go on a bit!
PPS - glad to have our No 1 contributor back! Or has Jen taken top spot with your neglect.

Angkor Wat and the floating village

Today was another early start for us in order to get a glimpse of Angkor Wat at sunrise. Unfortunately it was cloudy, however, as we waited in the crowd forming we soon realised why everyone who has seen it talks about it so much. Despite the sheer size of Angkor Wat and the other temples we visited today (Angkor Thom, Bayon and Ta Prohm to name a few) the detailed work in the stone was up there with the Indian temples despite the condition of some. The heavens opened unfortunately just after breakfast so we took shelter and spent the time watching big groups of Japanese tourists continually taking pictures despite the rain. We did consider getting bicycles to get around the place but after a short while agreed we made the right decision in hiring a tuk tuk and driver. It is hard to explain and show the magical atmosphere at Angkor Wat through words and a small picture but perhaps it should just remain in our heads and hope that others will be as fortunate as us to see it in the future.

Knowing we wouldn't see the sunset around the temples we decided to visit the floating village another 'must see' destination. We went to buy the tickets and were told it would cost $20 per person, twice what we'd been told and what it said in the book. We decided it was too expensive and walked away. When we went back to out tuk tuk driver he said he would buy the tickets for us. To him they sold them for $12. We were not impressed at the scam particularly as we later found out that the actual boat owners get about $2 a day for their tours. Never the less we eventually got on a boat and the boat owner was really friendly and informative. He also had 2 young children helping out due to it being Sunday (they go to school). The floating villages were really incredible with a whole community set up, including a school, church, police station and even a basketball court all floating around. Half way round we stopped off at a restaurant/gift shop where they had captured snakes and crocodiles to show the tourists, we looked but had no interest in any closer encounters. We bought the kids lollipops to say thank you and they were really excited. During the trip we had several of the local boats coming along side the sell goods (mainly soft drinks) but some especially the ones with kids in had snakes wrapped around their necks! Rach was not amused at one point! Returning to our tuk tuk we were really happy we'd taken this trip as it provided us with a greater insight into the way of life for some of the people in Cambodia. They appear to happy and content with their lot with a tinge of desire for things western. We hope it stays that way - almost unspoilt, but as with most things change is inevitable.

Thanks to everyone for all the messages, we love getting them! Feel free to compete with Becky and Jen for most hits.

Lots of Love

Rach & Mark. xxx

Siem Reap

We had a leisurely morning this morning - the journey yesterday took its toll and it was raining pretty hard outside anyway. We then headed to a place called Artisans d' Angkor which is a EU supported school that teaches young people handicrafts like silk painting and stone carving. After that we took a somewhat unreliable bus to the actual silk farm where Rach was in her element! I think she knew more about it than they did. Gill - Rach has photos galour for teaching materials - she'll put some on facebook. It showed all the processes from cultivation of worms to actual spinning, weaving and dyeing. We then headed back into town for a bite to eat and a spot of wandering around the food market. We struggled to identify all the weird fruit and veg. Tomorrow we head to the temples of Angkor - its another 5am start so we can catch sunrise over Angkor Wat. We intend to stay the whole day walking around the various sites so we can catch sunset over Angkor Thom another impressive recommendation. Then no doubt we'll end up at some watering hole for a well deserved beer.
We really like Siem Reap and the people are really friendly especially when you try and speak their language (very limited to yes, no, thank you and the bill please.)
After that its a journey south to the capital.
Hope all is good at home.
Love
Mark & Rach. xxx
PS - Frank thanks for the Poppy weight update and I'm worried you're becoming like us! Are you bald yet!

Bangkok to Siem Reap

Our last evening in Bangkok was really good fun. Rach went off to play netball with Jo. Yes Mum I played GS, GA and even a bit of GK. Was really good to have a run around and meet some of Jo's friends. Mark was all up for watching until on route we passed an Aussie bar with the cricket on big screen, netball all of a sudden wasn't so appealing.

Me and Jo picked Mark up on the way back to find out that he'd already made friends with the manager and chef and was even invited to an all you can drink event on Saturday. He was gutted we'd already booked our train ticket. We then went to a great expat bar.

This morning we had to get up at 4.30 after only 4 hours sleep to get a train to the Cambodian boarder. It was a six hour journey but went quite quick as we slept most of the way. On arrival it took a while to get through immigration and we then had a further two hour drive to get to Siem Reap. We checked into the guest house about 3pm and then went to explore Siem Reap. It's a great city and we enjoyed wandering through the markets (Mum you'd be in your element) and occassionally stopping off for a beer here and there. After our success with learning some Thai phrases we got a bar lady to teach us a few Cambodian phrases which went down very well at a restaurant.

Tomorrow we're going to chill and maybe go to a silk farm, then going to Angkor Wat on Sunday and Monday.

Love to all at home.

Dad, Sally and the Emblings hope you enjoyed your US vacations.

Rach & Mark. xxx

Bangkok

We arrived in Bangkok that on Tuesday night. It felt completely different to our arrival in Delhi, with none of the confusion and chaos. We got a taxi and arrived at our hostel - very basic but clean, which is more that we can say for many of the places we stayed at in India.

We went for a beer and and a walk around and immediately got a good feel about the place.

Yesterday we had our first lie in since we left home and it was definately needed it. We went to the famous Khao San road. Rach tried out her bartering skills that she thought she'd mastered in India. The first few attempts she went in about a third of the price and got firm rejections with one guy telling her to 'Piss off!' After a change of strategy we managed to get a few bargains and went a bit over the top with the spending!

In the evening with met up with Jo Kuk and had a few drinks and dinner. She taught us a bit of Thai which after a few beers we were keen to try out on everyone. It was really great to catch up with her and tonight we are seeing her again as we're going to play netball. Well Rach is and Mark is going to have a foot massage and some beers! Mark is keen to play but is not allowed, by Rach!

Tomorrow we leave early to get our 5.55am train to take us to the Cambodian border. We've really enjoyed our short stop in Bangkok and are looking forward to coming back here in about a months time.

Hope all is good at home.

Lots of Love
Rach & Mark. xxx

Udaipur to Pushkar

Just a brief update to let you know we're now in Pushkar and oh boy what an eventful journey as ever. The main road from Udaipur to Pushkar was a single laned and we encountered some interesting overtaking, particularly on blind bends. It seemed as if everyone was rushing to get home being a Friday. We're here for one day and then heading for Delhi (we still need to arrange hotel accommodation though!). Pushkar is a very small town near to the busy city of Ajmer, it has a lake in the centre but currently it looks more like a mud pit!
After being here for almost two weeks we thought we'd experience every culenary delight, however, at lunch Rach found a giant ant in her dish! As ever being British we didn't complain and when asked whether we enjoyed our meal we smiled and said it was lovely! Fingers crossed for dinner.
Next report will probably be from Thailand or Cambodia.
Lots of love.
Mark & Rach. xxx

Jodhpur & Udaipur

We travelled from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur, a hectic market city. We checked into 'heritage' hotel - our room looked like a decorated cowshed but it was a place to rest our heads. Know as the blue city due to the buildings being painted blue to keep the bugs away. We visited a fort on the hill but this time with audio guides rather than a person. We looked like real tourists!! On the way back we visited a temple which is considered to look like the Taj. It was peaceful but no way near. That afternoon we walked around the market and were offered everything!
We're now in Udiapur, a beautiful city by the lakes. Yesterday we travelled up to the Monsoon Palace that had great views of the city. Last night we had a fantastic meal on the lakeside looking at the city palace and the lake palace. We were even treated to some fireworks. Today we visited the City Palace, again another spectacular building. We're now walking the streets on our own - yippee no guide!
Tomorrow we depart for Pushkar our last stop before returning to the madness of Delhi. We have arranged to leave Delhi earlier than planned so will be arriving for Bangkok on 22nd September.
Lots of love to all.
Mark and Rach xxx

Jaisalmer and the desert

Yesterday we travelled to Jaisalmer, another 6 hour journey and yes Rach fell asleep. When we arrived we went to our accommodation - a kind of campsite from where they do camel safari. We dropped our stuff off and then went on a camel ride across the desert dunes. It was good fun but sore on the buttocks, especially when they raced them. When we got back to the campsite the owners se up a seated area where we sat and watched Indian dance and listened to an Indian band. They brought dinner out but by that time it was dark so we had no idea what we were eating. The dancers performed stunts - in the picture the woman has a needle in her eye. She bent over backwards and picked it up with her eye!

We had a few beers and chatted to an American couple on honeymoon.

We went to bed and when we got inside the tent it sounded like it was raining outside - it was actually all the insects flying into the tent. Many were also inside from little moths to big grasshoppers and dung beatles. We put the mosquito net up which saved us from the insect attacks. Unfortunately by the time we got it up there were already hundreds of insects inside the bed. We spend the first 15 minutes in bed swatting bugs. The other problem we had was that it was about 40 degrees and despite the door being open there was no breeze. Not the best nights sleep.

Today we have been in the centre of Jaisalmer and walked around the old narrow streets and markets in the Fort. Bloody hot in the desert so hopefully going to have a chilled out afternoon catching up on sleep. Tomorrow we go Jodhpur.

Lots of love

Rach & Mark. xxx

Travelling by road in India

Today we travelled from Jaipur to Bikaner and as usual it was an eventful journey with a number of obstacles in the roads! Apart from other drivers, dogs and people the first of these are cows which are on the main highways and city roads. They just amble across at will and or stand in the centre of the roads with the busy traffic rushing by them. They are sacred and therefore drivers will do anything to avoid them often swerving into on-coming traffic!

Another obstacle is the camel cart (see picture). These mainly travel on the highways at a considerably slower speed than the rest of the speeding traffic. Instead of slowing down and waiting for an opportunity to overtake them our driver prefers to drive on the other side of the road braving the on-coming traffic. Driving on the wrong side of the road is also not uncommon. If there is a central reservation then most drivers tend to drive on any side they wish despite the normal flow of traffic. This is to avoid going out of their way to turn around at the next junction.

In our five days in India we feel lucky to have only had two minor incidents. In Delhi our car was clipped by a bus and in Agra our car drove into the back of a motorcycle - all good fun when you have no seatbelt! On both occasions all parties when unharmed and everyone just carried on as if nothing had happened - obviously the norm! Rach finds the best way to overcome road travel is to fall asleep whilst Mark's fingernails have taken the brunt of his nerves!

Safely arrived in Bikaner (thank god) and visited the Junagarh Fort, a camel breeding farm and Laxminathji temple where the foundations where laid with ghee due to there being no water at the time. Now 400 years on when it is hot the floors still get greasy as the ghee rises to the surface. Mark say 'I can't believe it's not butter.' At the camel farm we tasted camel milk ice cream which was foul and tasted of camel smell - not pleasant!

Tomorrow we head into the desert on camel back (not elephant!) for one night in tents under the stars before heading to Jaisalmer.

Rach & Mark. xxx

Jaipur - Amber Fort

Our first night in Jaipur was very relaxing. We went to Birla Mandir temple with our guide Taren. It was really beautiful and had great views of Jaipur where we watched the sunset. Back at the hotel we managed to do some washing.

Today we woke up to blue skies and sunshine. Very hot and we almost wished we could have the rain back! We visited the Amber Fort - a former home of the king of Jaipur. We got our animals mixed up and it was elephants that took tourists up to the Fort, not camels! We did not however ride them because we're planning to do that in Thailand. We did however get some fantastic pictures of them.

Our guide was excellent, he was very knowledgeable and gave us time to wander around on our own and enjoy the sights. The Fort was impressive like many of the places we have already seen and the detail on the walls and entrances was incredible. The only problem we did have walking around on our own was that due to the complex of passages and rooms we got lost and had to ask for directions.

We feel a lot more comfortable walking the streets of Jaipur. It is cleaner and the people seem really friendly - Not so many stares! So far our favourite city of India.

Tomorrow we depart for Bikaner which is 300km away.

Lots of Love

Rach & Mark. xxx

Taj Mahal, Agra

Today we went to the Taj Mahal. We went early to avoid the masses and hopefully see the sunrise. Unfortunately it was very overcast and raining so there was no sun to be seen. We did, however, get some amazing pictures. We had a very knowledgeable guide called Pravin who told us about the history. He was good but talked continually in broken English and we only understood about half of what he said.
This afternoon we traveled to Jaipur. Just arrived and very impressed with our rather swanky hotel. This luxury won't last long.
Jaipur seems a lot cleaner than Delhi and Agra but we're yet to explore properly. We are staying in Jaipur for two days and this evening we are going to the old Fort on camel back and have a new guide called Himanshu. On Saturday we will be heading to Bikaner.
Hope all is well at home. Thanks for the messages - good to hear from you all.
Lots of Love
Rach & Mark. xxx

Delhi and Agra

Hello all. Sorry its taken so long but couldn't find an internet cafe in Delhi!
We've had a great first few days and have travelled extensively around Delhi at times feeling like more of a tourist attraction than the temples!
We are now in Agra and have spent the day visiting the Fort. Tomorrow we will be going to the Taj Mahal for sunrise.
Sorry its brief but the keypad has tip-exed letters on it and Mark can't touch type so it has taken a while! We will upload more pictures very soon but there are some on Facebook (for those with access)
Hope all is good at home.
Love
Mark & Rach xxx

Virgin lounge and the trousers!

Well we're here in the Virgin lounge supping on a Bloody Mary! How things will change when we arrive in Delhi!
Departure from home was slightly delayed by a trouser incident involving Rach and a jug of gravy! Oh well trousers are now clean but wet and a good job Mum had a spare pair.
Thanks for all your well wishes. We look forward to being able put some slightly more interesting updates on and hopefully less of the trouser incidents!
Rach & Mark. xxx

Leaving Cake!